Boring Gray Wedge vs Broken tooth

This is the forum where you will role play for any fantasy leagues going on at the time.

Moderator: Tournament Hosts

Post Reply
User avatar
Tcrrr
Posts: 122
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2018 1:46 pm
Team: Code Red Robotics

Boring Gray Wedge vs Broken tooth

Post by Tcrrr » Sat Mar 07, 2020 9:45 pm

Me: 8/7/4/0/11 (+2)
Him: 6/4/1/13/6

The arena doesn't allow box rushes to be all too common, so I'll have to adapt.

At the beginning of the match, get to him as quickly as possible to try and smother him into the hazards nearby. My ideal plan for him is to take severe damage on the wheels on the arena hazards, as then he'd be bumping about the place, barely able to drive, and the wedge would turn to dogshit. If that doesn't happen exactly how I want it, if possible just push him around the arena, and try to prevent him from getting his chopsaw in play against me (by reversing him off of me), if he gets a chance to use it.

I've got 8 speed, 7 traction, and 4 torque compared to his 6 speed, 4 traction, and 1 torque, so I'd want to play offensive as much as I possibly can. He's got worse traction control than I do, which means he's more prone to driving errors than I would be, as he's got a -2 disparity compared to my -1 disparity, on top of my drivetrain being far superior in numbers . I also have the same amount of armor on my wedge as he has weapon power, so if I make sure we only go weapon to wedge, the wedge will be just fine (for the most part)

If I ever get wedged by him from any angle, I'll back up, try a different spot with some clever J hooks, escape maneuvers and the like, then I'll try again at wedging him to the hazards, and at no point do I want to monstertruck over his wedge, where he can make his disc contact my chassis, which I will avoid doing to the best of my abilities.

To spice things up, I will occasionally try to go in for a flank, which will cause him to gyrodance, which makes him even easier to control (unless he has a plan for that, which most veterans of his experience do, and in that scenario, that plan is most likely slowing down the weapon to try and control his ground.

Once I've gained control of the match, take him to the nearest hazard to damage his wheels or his chassis. I'll be careful at this time, as I don't want to get hit by those hazards, but the effects are not as bad as they would be on something with less armor (like my opponent)

If at any point I land inverted, I'll carefully try my best to aim to reinvert myself upright with gabe's disc.

User avatar
Venice Queen
Posts: 2716
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 7:00 pm
Team: ‽ Robotics

Re: Boring Gray Wedge vs Broken tooth

Post by Venice Queen » Sat Mar 07, 2020 10:59 pm

Boring Grey Wedge: Speed: 8 / Traction: 7 / Torque: 4 / Armor: 11 (+2 wedge)
Broken Tooth: 6 / Traction: 4 / Torque: 1 / Weapon: 13 (1 of weapon armor bonus to arm) / Armor: 6 (+2 weapon assembly)

___________________________

This is one of those matches where we just pretend we're a vert for the most part, mostly because his wedge is pretty fuckin ass compared to mine (2 independent hinged forks and a hinged weapon arm means 3 chances to get under him, and they all outrange his forks, which there are far too many of: they're close together enough to at like a flat wedge, and on an ABR no less), but also flipping him into the OOTA zone or spike hazard is fun.

one nice thing I have going for me is that I actually threaten to punt him directly towards the OOTA zone from my starting square if I point at the one across from me. this might make him wary of engaging since I could chain hits into it, which will allow me to get up to speed. see if he'll take the camping bait for a little, and be willing to do it later occasionally if the opportunity presents itself.

assuming he doesn't, do get aggressive, and try to force fast engagements before he can take advantage of my control disparity - he can't actually flank me in time if I'm decisive about when to be aggressive. if he gets under, he takes me into a wall. congrats. I can monster truck (all components hinged, wheels stick out from chassis), or use the momentum of the flipper swinging my weapon to free myself. I can also engage with the back and hammersaw him if I dont have the time to turn around.

one thing to consider is that I have a flipper as well as a vert - which means that I can probably chain 2 hits into a hit + flip to basically cross the arena with him just by driving forewards - even if the last hit is weak, its momentum combined with the flip should be enough to OOTA him, and will definitely be adequate to get him onto the hazards. this means that I threaten to OOTA him or send him onto the hazards from almost any part of the arena. I also deal 4 damage to his chassis, which is possible on chained hits, or when im forced to hammersaw.

BY THE WAY - never engage with my back to the spike hazard thing. his best win con is to stall me out on them: I can escape wallpins.

GL!

Post Reply